So long time no hear. I am no a OTR truck driver and have been in training for the last 7 weeks. I have new blog that i habe dedicated to my trucking experience so if you want head on over to pozzitrac.com for the new adventure.
It was time for a new garbage disposal as my 14-year-old OEM disposal decided to start falling apart. One of the metal pieces decided to break off and not play anymore. So after a long and time-consuming research on new disposals, I have come to a conclusion that I do not need any high power top of the line disposal. I for one do not use mine that much in the first place and the small 1/3 hp motor lasted me for over 14 years as it is so I started to look for a cheap decent unit to replace.
I found out that there are many different brands out there and all kinds of sizes. But for my needs ad very very low budget I wanted one less than a $100 bucks. I ended up with the Waste King Ledged 1/2 hp l-2600 model. It was only $67.00 from Amazon and it was also more hp than my old one. After looking at the reviews I decided that this would work for me and within my current budget.
The only thing I did not need was the power cord. My old unit was hard-wired and I know how to do wiring so I wasn’t concerned about have the power cord pre-wired.
I installed the unit my self-being a handyman. I will fix about anything in my home or at least give it a shot before I call in someone else. Let’s face it I’m a tight ass and if I can do it myself to save some bucks then I will. Anyway here is what I did to install the Waste King L-2600 garbage disposal.
First, I have to turn off the circuit breaker from the main junction box to cut the power off from the old unit. As the old unit was hardwired I have to disconnect it.
After I have turned off the breaker I then cleared out the cabinet under the sink so I had room to work.
I have to disconnect the old plumbing from the old unit then I reached up to the collar of the old unit and turn it counterclockwise to unhook the old unit from the bottom of the sink.
Once that was disconnected I flipped over the unit and unbolted the nut from the bottom of the unit so I can access the wiring. The wiring is connected with wire nuts that you can untwist to disconnect each wire. Red, black, and ground (bare wire). Once disconnected I can new move the old unit out from underneath the sink and out of the way.
At this point, I do have a couple of options. since the old unit used a quick connect system and my new unit last has a quick connect system I could just hang the new unit up on the old connections and go from there but my old quick connect and drain were just filthy and slimy from years of use so I decided to use the new stuff that came with the new unit. So I pried off the rubber gasket that let the quick coupling come off and UN screed the drain.
Once the old drain and quick connect was off I installed the new drain and quick connect. Follow the instructions do you get a good seal and no leaks.
Next before I installed the unit to the new quick connect ring I had to do some electrical work. Since my old unit was wired directly and my new unit had a power cord I have to do one of two things. One I could unwire the power cord on the new unit and attached the original wiring to the new unit or the way I went was I installed a plug socket under the sink.
I gather the materials need, socket, electrical box, screws. I took the electrical box and mounted it to the back of the sick under the counter. Then I pulled the wiring into the box. Wired the socket and installed the socket to the box. Now the old wiring is connected to the new socket.
When the socket was installed when I installed the unit onto the quick connect. If you have a dishwasher then make sure you punch out the hole on the unit to attach the line from the dishwasher to the unit. I then attached the dishwasher hose to the unit. Then I reinstalled my plumbing. on my set up I needed to cut one of my straight pipes down a couple of inches for my pipes to line up and work correctly other than that all went as planned.
Once unit installed and all piping installed I plugged the unit into the new socket that I installed. Next I turn UN the breaker to the new socket that was the old unit wiring.
Turned on the water and flipped the switch. The new unit purred and no leaks. All working and all this done within 45 min.
Now we will see how long this new unit lasts.
So my driver’s side fog lamp went out and I can’t stand driving with a light burned out. I scanned the internet and have all kinds of ways to replace the bulb. of course, all of the articles I found are for 2012-2017. but there are slight variations in the years. most articles tell you to remove the headlamp and go down from the top. but on the 2016 model, it is so tight that you can’t get your hand down the hole. the other articles tell you to jack the car up. remove the front wheel then remove the front wheel well skirt, which you will need to loosen the bottom deflector. way to much work. so one person in a bulletin board said to just remove the foglamp bezel and unscrew the fog lamp and change the bulb. guess what that is the easiest and best way to do this job. here is what I did when I changed my fog lamp bulb.
first, I removed the headlamp, I the was able just barley unplug the fog lamp bulb harness with a long screwdriver. I managed to get my hand down in the hole only to remove the old bulb and drop it. oh well, I let it go. I tried for fifteen minutes trying to get the new bulb in and could not manipulate my hand to get the bulb in without touching the glass. FYI if you touch he glass of halogen bulbs the oil on your hands will make them burn out very quickly, so do not touch the glass with bare hands!!.
as i was saying i could not get my hands down the freaking hold so them i remembered that one guy said to go from the front.
I pried the front bezel of the fog lamp of and Walla i see three screws holding the foglamp in.
I unscrew the three screws and the foglamp popped out.
I then replaced the bulb and reinstalled the lamp and snapped the bezel back in place.
no need of doing any of the other B.S. stuff. have fun
so my photo site is backup, i am still adding the photos back and that is taking time but i have it up and running so enjoy http://rasphotostudios.com
so here we are with our new host , A2 Hosting. still in middle of set up but I’m getting things straighten out so far.
well its been awhile and I got the itch to build a new pc. wanted to get into the new ddr4 and higher gaming speeds. since the case I used before was so sweet, the Corsair 760T Black ATX Full Tower Case I decided to use the same case but I bought the white case to keep it in my color scheme. I decided to run this case as air cool to start off with. I liked the looks a of the GPU which Ill be using the new Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti GV-N98TG1 Gaming-6GD 6GB card which comes with a nifty lighting setup which if I went all out water-cooling I would lose that effect. if I decide to water cool ill just water-cool the CPU and not GPU but if I want to water-cool the GPU I think for the best bang for the buck I would get the new Asus Presidion hybrid card GeForce ti980 cards and not mess with the matching of blocks to a card BS. so here is the list of what ill be using in this set up. I finally bought the Wampa and Luke Skywalker to finish my build and added the pics of them enjoy
CPU: Intel Core i7 6700k SkyLake 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASUS Z170-AR LGA1151 ATX Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000
Video Cards: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 980 Ti GV-N98TG1 GAMING-6GD 6GB
Main Drive: SAMSUNG E 500GB 850 EVO M.2 SSD
Storage 2: APRICORN Velocity Due x2 Pci-e to SATA 8Gb/s SSD adapter with CRUCIAL MX200 250GB SSD III and KINGSTON V300 128GB SSDIII in RAID 0
Case: Corsair 760T White ATX Full Tower Case
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro – 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit)
Fans: 4x THERMALTA RIING FAN 140MM WHITE LED
CPU Fan: 1 x ENERMAX ETS-T40F-W White CPU Cooler with Dual White LED PWM Fans
Other: NZXT LED CONTROLLER
Other: Star Wars Black Edition Wampa and Luke Skywalker
Sources of the Parts are gathered from various companies but mainly from my main sources Microcenter, Newegg, and FrozenPC. Here are pics of the build sofar.
hey ya, will be posting updates on my little conversion project that i have started. i always wanted a robotic rover and was looking for years on what to get when i came across a frame that i liked and then after reading many articles i found out that i could take my old T-Maxx and convert it from nitro to Electric instead of getting a pre made ok unit. so first thing i did was get a bracket for an electric motor that fits my frame from How2RC.com. they have articles on how to convert your nitro T-MAX to electric.
Here is my first liquid build. I call it Blue Ice. It has an I5-4690k Devil CPU on an ASRock Extreme 4 motherboard. I went all out and also paired it up with 2 Asus Poseidon GTX Video Cards and 16GB of Corsair Dominator Platinum Memory with Blue LED mod Added to them. I am running 2 separate liquid cooling systems. First loop runs thru a XSPC pump and 2 Bay Reservoir combo which is pared to a XSPC EX240 Radiator and running thru a Raystorm CPU cooler and back to the reservoir. The second loop runs through an XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo (D5 Vario) to a XSPC EX360 Radiator then trough both the Asus Poseidon’s and back to the Photon 170. All of this is put into a Corsair 760T Case. All tubing is PETG with PrimoChill 1/2″ OD Rigid Ghost Compression fittings. Here is a list of parts that I have used and pics of the build. Only two things that I ran into ii had to do a little mod to is I mounted the Photon 1700 to the back of the motherboard tray. There were two holes that fit just right but I had to use spacers for one of the mounting holes was in the way of the SSD HD Drive holder. I also had to trim one SSD HD Drive holder to pass by the bolt that held the reservoir. I Also had to bend the second row bay supports down out of the way that held the 5 ¼ drives in the second bay because the 2 bay reservoir would not fit. To make it easier to fill the 2 bay reservoir I had to trim the front cover so that I could pull the from cover off and not disturb anything else to fill the 2 bay reservoir when needed. Here is the list of parts
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1866
Memory: 2x MEMORY COOLING CORSAIR CMDLBUK02B led upgrade kit
Video Cards: 2x ASUS PSDNGTX780-P-3GD5 GeForce GTX780 3GB GDDR5 PCI-e 3.0×16
Storage: 2X SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE500BW 2.5″ 500GB SATA III TLC Internal (SSD)
Case: Corsair 760T Black ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro – 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit)
Cooling: Raystorm 750 EX360 water-cooling kit– includes bay reservoir/pump- EX360 rad
Cooling: XSPC EX 240 Radiator
Cooling: XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo (D5 Vario)
Cooling Tubes: 3/8″ X 1/2″ FROM FROZEN PC PRIMOCHILL 4 x 36″
Cooling Liquid: XCoolant x 3
Cooling Fittings: FROZENCPU BLACK ROTARY 90 ADAPTER
Cooling Fittings: PrimoChill 1/2″ OD Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings 4 Pack – Anodized Blue
Fans: 4x Corsair AF120 Air Series Blue LED Quiet Edition Case Fan
Fans: 2x Corsair Air Series AF140 Performance Series 140mm Case Fan – Quiet Edition
Other: PrimoChill 1/2″ OD Rigid Tubing Bending Kit
Other: SLEEVED CABLE SET EVGA 100-CU-1300-B9 R in Blue
Sources of the Parts are gathered from various companies but mainly from my main sources Microcenter, Newegg, and FrozenPC. Here are pics of the build.
EVGA 1000 P2 power supply XSPC EX370 kit includes 2 bay reservoir/pump
raystorm CPU cooler and EX370 rad plus all parts
2 bay resivour raystorm CPU Cooler
replaced with Corsair Blue led 120mm tubing replace with PETG
EX370 and EX240 Radiators
this is where the 2nd bay supports had to be bent down to accommodate the reservoir
EX240 rad installed with 2x 140mm Corsair blue LED fans
760t came with built in fan controller but the wiring was a rats nest
i had to unplug 1 wire from each unit and rewire it to
make it more friendly to use.
Z97 Extreme 4 2x SAMSUNG 840 EVO 500gb SSD
Pimochill PETG PETG bending kit works great.
PrimoChill 1/2″ OD Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings 4 Pack – Anodized Blue
XSPC Photon 170 Tube Glass Cylinder Reservoir / Pump Combo (D5 Vario)
this is where i had to add spacers to the testing all parts before any customizing to
reservoir to make room for the SDD holder make sure everything works..air cooled
had to trim the one on the right to miss the bolt again on right when mounted
Raystorm CPU Cooler PSU and wiring to it
CPU cooler installed attempt to paint the red
VGA power cables to blue
paint the ugly red to blue on Asus Poseidon cards
running fans only for testing my first(second) bend of PETG
first pipe in first pipe to rad and Photon 270
first pipe to Photon
pipe from bay reservoir to EX240 Rad An Asus video card apart and repainted cover
First loop Completed
first 2 pics is first loop completed loop 1 test for leaks loop 2 started
Corsair Dominators second SSD drive and Blue LED kit
1st and 2nd loops under leak test..
back of pc rats nest
Dominators are in and the system is up and running. testing for leaks
well i just received my braded cables the last piece of my project
here is the old painted cables yuck and my new cables
so here is pics of my finished project BLUE-ICE taaadaaa. enjoy.
been awhile since I been updated. so here I am again. been going through all my pic’s and editing, deleting and juts organizing my pic’s that I have taken over the years. I juts recently finished my Colorado pic’s and my some of my Main pic’s. here a couple below. I have been pushing the new/updated pic’s out to my website
http://rasphotostudios.com (site is down right now) and also to my flicker account http://flicker.com/sirryche. came across another site called 500px. seem pretty cool if you want to pay for it. the free version would be a waste if you already have flicker. just my two cents. anyway here’s a couple of pic’s.
hey this just came up and I just spent some to creating this instructions on how to get a domain name. you can go to many different domain providers and the basic domain name registrations is just that a name registration. so a $9.00 domain name from godaddy.com to a $150.00 domain name from so over expensive provider is no difference. just the price. some might combine a hosting site or other special bullshit but never over pay for a basic domain name registration. as for now I made a quick and easy instruction using godaddy.com. me personally I use bluehost.com domain. the steps are the same it’s just I had to do this one for somebody thru godaddy.com. her we go.
Go to a domain provider and enter domain name that you are looking for. For work we use godaddy.com and for my personal I use bluehost.com. Registering a domain is about the same from any domain provider and only the prices will vary. So if we use godaddy.com you then will do as follows.
· Go to godaddy.com
· For single domain just type it in the box provided but for multiple domains click the link under the search box labeled ‘Bulk Search’
· Using bulk search type a domain name one per line in the box provided and then hit go
· It will tell you the available names and you can check which ones you want to buy and register
· Click proceed to check out when ready
· Next page just hit continue or if interested check mark the items of interest and it will be added to checkout.
· Review and check out. Next page is where you (new customer) sign up now and follow instructions. Create account and finish. Crating an account will let you control and manage all your purchases thru godaddy.com and allows you to get free webhosting thru them.
so that’s the basics. hhmmm my arrows didn’t transfer right … oh well you get the idea..